Grupo de Ingeniería Estadística Multivariante GIEM

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Author: Zarzo Castelló, Manuel × Subject: Fragrance ×

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Now showing 1 - 5 of 5
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    What is a fresh scent in perfumery? Perceptual freshness iscorrelated with substantivity
    (MDPI, 2013-01) Zarzo Castelló, Manuel; Dpto. de Estadística e Investigación Operativa Aplicadas y Calidad; Escuela Técnica Superior de Ingeniería Informática; Grupo de Ingeniería Estadística Multivariante GIEM
    Perfumes are manufactured by mixing odorous materials with different volatilities. The parameter that measures the lasting property of a material when applied on the skin is called substantivity or tenacity. It is well known by perfumers that citrus and green notes are perceived as fresh and they tend to evaporate quickly, while odors most dissimilar to fresh (e.g., oriental, powdery, erogenic and animalic scents) are tenacious. However, studies aimed at quantifying the relationship between fresh odor quality and substantivity have not received much attention. In this work, perceptual olfactory ratings on a fresh scale, estimated in a previous study, were compared with substantivity parameters and antierogenic ratings from the literature. It was found that the correlation between fresh odor character and odorant substantivity is quite strong (r = −0.85). Fresh is sometimes interpreted in perfumery as cool and the opposite of warm . This association suggests that odor freshness might be somehow related to temperature. Assuming that odor perception space was shaped throughout evolution in temperate climates, results reported here are consistent with the hypothesis that fresh evokes scents typically encountered in the cool season, while warm would be evoked by odors found in nature during summer. This hypothesis is rather simplistic but it may provide a new insight to better understand the perceptual space of scents.
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    Multivariate analysis of olfactory profiles for 140 perfumes as a basis to derive a sensory wheel for the classification of feminine fragrances
    (MDPI AG, 2020-02) Zarzo Castelló, Manuel; Dpto. de Estadística e Investigación Operativa Aplicadas y Calidad; Escuela Técnica Superior de Ingeniería Informática; Grupo de Ingeniería Estadística Multivariante GIEM
    [EN] In order to guide consumers in their purchase of a new fragrance, one approach is to visualize the spectrum of men's or women's fragrances on a two-dimensional plot. One of such sensory maps available is the Hexagon of Fragrance Families. It displays 91 women's perfumes inside a polygon, so that each side accounts for a different olfactory class. In order to discuss this chart, odor profiles were obtained for these fragrances and additional feminine ones (140 in total, launched from 1912 to 1990). An olfactory dataset was arranged by coding numerically the descriptions obtained from Fragrantica and Osmoz websites, as well as from a perfume guide. By applying principal component analysis, a sensory map was obtained that properly reflected the similarities between odor descriptors. Such representation was equivalent to the map of feminine fragrances called Givaudan Analogies, comprised of five major categories. Based on the results, a modified version of the Hexagon based on 14 categories was proposed. The first principal component explained preference for daytime versus nighttime wear, and regression models were fitted in order to estimate such preferences according to the odor profiles. The second component basically discriminated floral versus chypre (mossy-woody) fragrances. Results provide a fundamental basis to develop standard sensory maps of women's fragrances.
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    Understanding the perceptual spectrum of commercial perfumes as a basis for a standard sensory wheel of fragrances
    (MDPI AG, 2020) Zarzo Castelló, Manuel; Dpto. de Estadística e Investigación Operativa Aplicadas y Calidad; Escuela Técnica Superior de Ingeniería Informática; Grupo de Ingeniería Estadística Multivariante GIEM
    [EN] Given the enormous number of perfumes available on the market, it is of interest to guide consumers in their purchase of a new fragrance. One approach is to project the multidimensional perceptual space of scents on a two-dimensional sensory map based on meaningful dimensions. One of the pioneering studies on this issue mapped 94 commercial perfumes according to two axes. Such an odor map is discussed here in detail by applying Principal Component Analysis to the numeric odor description of 176 fragrances. Quantitative odor profiles were obtained from Fragrantica's website and three fragrances guides published by Haarmann & Reimer, Michael Edwards, and the French Society of Perfumers. A sensory map was obtained that reflected the similarities and dissimilarities between those odor descriptors most commonly used in perfumery. This representation was consistent with other related plots that have been previously reported. One dimension discriminated between fragrances targeted at men versus women. An orthogonal factor distinguished perfumes for daytime versus nighttime wear. These ratings, as well as seasonal preferences, could be estimated based on the main odor character attributes applied to describe the scent. The results provide a scientific basis for the comprehensive classification of commercial perfumes compiled by Edwards according to his famous "Fragrance Wheel".
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    Underlying dimensions in the descriptive space of perfumery odors: part II
    (Elsevier, 2015-07) Zarzo Castelló, Manuel; Dpto. de Estadística e Investigación Operativa Aplicadas y Calidad; Escuela Técnica Superior de Ingeniería Informática; Grupo de Ingeniería Estadística Multivariante GIEM
    Some comprehensive compilations of odor character descriptions are available in the literature, and they contain valuable information to better understand the underlying dimensions of human odor psychophysics. In the present study, principal component analysis was applied to two olfactory databases of perfumery materials publicly available, which are comprised by those odor descriptors most frequently used in perfumery. The projection of descriptors over the two principal axes (two-component solution) led to related plots, which are also similar to the one obtained in a previous study (Zarzo, 2008). Although the descriptive space of odors is highly multidimensional, our results suggest that it is possible to reach a consensus about how to project perfumery scents on a two-dimensional map, and how to interpret the dimensions of that sensory map. One of them discriminates light vs. heavy odors; the orthogonal axis was correlated with hedonic tones, but it is better interpreted as an underlying latent structure that distinguishes feminine vs. masculine cosmetic scents.
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    A sensory 3-D map of the odor description space derived from a comparison of numeric odor profile databases
    (Oxford University Press (OUP), 2015-06) Zarzo Castelló, Manuel; Dpto. de Estadística e Investigación Operativa Aplicadas y Calidad; Escuela Técnica Superior de Ingeniería Informática; Grupo de Ingeniería Estadística Multivariante GIEM
    Many authors have proposed different schemes of odor classification, which are useful to aid the complex task of describing smells. However, reaching a consensus on a particular classification seems difficult because our psychophysical space of odor description is a continuum and is not clustered into well-defined categories. An alternative approach is to describe the perceptual space of odors as a low-dimensional coordinate system. This idea was first proposed by Crocker and Henderson in 1927, who suggested using numeric profiles based on 4 dimensions: fragrant, acid, burnt, and caprylic. In the present work, the odor profiles of 144 aroma chemicals were compared by means of statistical regression with comparable numeric odor profiles obtained from 2 databases, enabling a plausible interpretation of the 4 dimensions. Based on the results and taking into account comparable 2D sensory maps of odor descriptors from the literature, a 3D sensory map (odor cube) has been drawn up to improve understanding of the similarities and dissimilarities of the odor descriptors most frequently used in fragrance chemistry.